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Damping-off and rot problems on newly planted roofs

Wayne
June 12, 2008 11:20AM
Group Member
Posts: 11

I have heard that several newly planted roofs are experiencing damping-off and rot this Spring.  Damping-off is a condition that causes the plant to lose vigor and die, in some cases almost overnight.  This is caused by several fungi.  Plants are vulnerable to attack by these fungi during periods of unfavorable growing conditions.  Species of Pythium, Sclerotinia, and Phytophthora are more likely to cause damping-off in cool, wet soils; whereas species of Rhizoctonia, Fusarium and Sclerotium rolfsii may cause damping-off under warmer and drier conditions. This type of injury often damages the leaves and upper stem before the roots are affected.  True damping-off may be confused with plant injury caused by planting too deep, high soluble salts, drowning in wet soil, desiccation in dry soil, and death of plants from excessive heat or cold.  Rhizoctonia and Pythium do not have an airborne stage. The spread of both fungi depends primarily on the mechanical transfer of resting spores in infested soil. As with most fungi, the spores are spread by the splash of rain water or infected tools.

Symptoms

Typical symptoms of damping-off are rotting stems at or near the soil line and root decay.  You generally notice brown stems at or just above the soil line.  Infected plants are shriveled, brown, collapsed or stunted. Moldy fungal growth may be seen on affected plants at the soil line. Phytopthera, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Sclerotinia, and Sclerotium generally caused damping-off by killing the plant at the soil line. Pythium attacks below the soil line, often at root tips.

 Control

The best control of damping-off is to avoid it altogether. Once damping-off has started in a plant bed, it may be difficult to control.  Proper soil treatment with heat or chemicals to reduce the level of fungi that cause damping-off is very important.  The compost added to the growing mix needs to be properly "Composted" to rid it of any pathogens.  The compost added to the growing mix needs to be from a trusted source.  The composting time needs to be a minimum of four months with proper aeration, then covering while it cures for four weeks.  Proper temperatures of 150F or above must be maintained for eight weeks for sterilization.  Chemical control is an effective tool you can use once damping-off is suspected.  Check with your University's Agricultural Extension Service for their recomendations. 

Summary

Damping-off can be avoided if you take into account that a Greenroof planting is just as suceptable to issues that most gardeners face on the ground.  We need to remember that plants aren't just another layer on the roof, they are but living organisms.

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Replies to this Topic


Robert
June 13, 2008 01:37PM
Group Member
Posts: 1

As a grower like Wayne, I have had intermittant problems with fungus.  My problems start primarily due to high temperatures (92 degrees plus) stressing the plants especially during the lengthy severe drought we are having in NC.  What I have found best for treatment is to apply 1 teaspoon per gallon of Ortho Garden Disease Control (Chlorothalonil) or Daconil (which is the same). 

 

Bob Long   Carolina Stonecrops, Inc. 

Gregory
June 13, 2008 05:24PM
Group Manager
Posts: 19

I am so glad that Wayne brought this topic up especially as we are beginning to enter into the season when our "dew points" start to rise and the humidity becomes a factor in the health of many of the succulents that we use on our roofs.

Normally, in early August we apply a lightweight fungicide on projects where crown rot is most likely to occur. Buildings that are in low lying areas where there tends to be a lot of early morning fog and are partially shaded in the afternoons tend to become a hot spot for a variety of diseases especially if the sun can not get in and dry out those areas. Most buildings over 6 stories in height might not have any problems unless the greenroof assembly is constantly inundated with rainwater or a drains backs up or clogs causing an area to become to wet. We had a problem with that earlier this spring when some filter fabric clogged up around a drain inlet causing water to pond. We are now going with "fiberglass" based filter fabrics around our drains to allow for better drainage.

Also, I believe that Tectaclor is another chemical that is good for controlling "crown rot" and if you suspect that your roof might be suffering from either a disease or poor drainage I would recommend having the system checked out immediately by a professional.

Wayne
August 31, 2008 12:17PM
Group Member
Posts: 11

With fall on the horizon and cooler nights, scouting for and finding pockets of fungus now will help with control and eradication, avoiding potentially serious problems this winter. As I've said before, we need to treat these plantings just like the landscapes we have on the ground, constantly watching for problems. It isn't a bad idea to treat your greenroof plantings with a preventative fungicide drench of Subdue, Terrachlor or Zero-Tol now to stop potential outbreaks.    Check the label on the above products for application rates and apply in the morning when wind and other environmental conditions permit.  If you need any help with finding these products, give me a call or drop me an e-mail.  Remember Ben Franklin;  "A stitch in time saves nine".


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